A guide to visiting the Pantanal wetland, Brazil

Stretching across the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul (also spilling into Bolivia and Paraguay) the Pantanal in Brazil is the world's largest inland wetland area. While the Amazon gets more credit, the Pantanal's open spaces offer the best opportunities for spotting animals in their natural habitats in Brazil. Madelaine Tribe tells you everything you need to know about these South American wetlands.

Why visit the Pantanal?

The Pantanal is the world's largest inland wetland, and without exaggeration one of the best places for wildlife enthusiasts. While throngs of tourists head to the Amazon every year, the fact that it is much easier to see animals in their natural habitat in the open floodplains of the Pantanal remains unknown to the general public. It is one of the only places in the world where you can confidently see jaguars in the wild, as well as giant otters, capybaras, caimans and hundreds of bird species, including the legendary hyacinth macaws and jabiru storks.

Unlike the dense and rugged Amazon, the Pantanal wetland offers unobstructed views of rich wildlife and its vast network of rivers and lagoons creates a stunning, ever-changing landscape. In addition to its natural beauty, the region is home to the Pantaneiro cowboys, where you can experience the traditional way of life on a working cattle ranch. Whether you go on a boat safari, ride a horse through the marshes or simply admire the sunset, the Pantanal is raw, wild and unforgettable.

Which side should I visit: Mato Grosso or Mato Grosso do Sul?

There is no clear answer to this question, both regions are equally worthy of your attention. However, if you do have to choose, here are some things you should consider:

• Mato Grosso (North): This is jaguar territory. The Cuiabá River is the top spot for jaguar safaris, especially from July to September, when the cats prowl the riverbanks. You’ll also find plenty of pousadas and lodges along the Transpantaneira Road, a dirt track peppered with wooden bridges and prime wildlife-viewing stops.
• Mato Grosso do Sul (South): Known for its ranches and Pantaneiro cowboy culture, this side has a more relaxed, budget-friendly vibe. Here, you can experience cattle herding, try tereré (an ice-cold yerba mate drink), and enjoy a deeper dive into the local way of life.

Can’t choose? Do both – if time and budget allow.

When to visit the Pantanal?

The best time to visit Pantanal wetland depends on what you want to see and how you plan to explore. The region has two distinct seasons – dry and rainy – each offering a completely different experience.

The dry season (June to September) is the prime time for Pantanal wildlife spotting. As the water levels drop, animals like jaguars, caimans, and giant otters gather around the remaining waterholes, making them easier to find. The cooler weather also makes outdoor activities like safaris and horseback riding more comfortable.

In contrast, the rainy season (November to March) transforms the Pantanal into a lush, flooded wonderland. This is when rivers overflow and much of the area becomes accessible only by boat or small planes. While wildlife can be harder to spot, the scenery is spectacular, and birdwatchers will love the explosion of activity among migratory species.

If you're the kind of person who doesn't mind a mix of both, the shoulder seasons (April-May and October) offer a balance between acceptable water levels and fewer tourists.

Editor's tip: If Pantanal is only part of your Brazil itinerary, I suggest you research the best time to visit Brazil to find the best weather balance.

How to get to Pantanal and how do I get around?

Reaching the Pantanal is straightforward, but exploring its vast wetlands requires careful planning. The two main gateways are Cuiabá (for Mato Grosso in the north) and Campo Grande (for Mato Grosso do Sul in the south), both with flight connections from São Paulo and Rio.

Once there, you’ll need private transport or a guided tour, as public transport is nonexistent in the Pantanal wetland. If the urge is strong you can rent a car. Self-driving is an option, but expect dirt roads, rickety wooden bridges and lots of wildlife crossing your path - especially in Transpantaneira (north) or Estrada do Parque (south). Both roads offer access to lodges, pousadas, and wildlife hotspots, but conditions can be challenging, especially during the rainy season.

Editor's tip: To avoid the hassle, I still recommend booking a safari or guided tour. Many operators organize everything from airport pick-ups to boat rides and wildlife excursions. Also worth remembering - if you're heading deep into the wetlands or coming during the rainy season, small charter planes and boats are often your only way to get here.

What animals can I expect to see?

As we have already found out, the Pantanal is more than capable of challenging the Amazon in terms of wildlife. But what kind of animals will you be able to see when you come here? Let's take a closer look at what to expect from the Pantanal wildlife.

The highlight of the program is definitely the Jaguar, and the Cuiaba River (northern Pantanal) is the best place to see them, especially between July and September. You can also expect to see giant otters, capybaras and the ever-present caimans resting nonchalantly on the riverbanks.

When it comes to birds, the Pantanal wetland is a paradise for bird lovers. Look out for the jabiru stork, Brazil's national bird, towering over the wetlands, or the brilliant blue of the hyacinth macaws, the largest parrots in the world. Toucans, kingfishers and ibises are also present in abundance.

Less likely, but there is still a chance you may see a giant anteater, marsh deer or the elusive Brazilian tapir. 

Editor's tip: Dawn and dusk are the best times to spot wildlife, so plan your safari accordingly.

What can I do in the Pantanal?

There's plenty to do in Pantanal, but it's worth bearing in mind that your Pantanal experience will depend on where you stay and how adventurous you want to be. Here are some of the main activities you may want to think about:

Wildlife safaris

During a jaguar safari along the Cuiaba River and its tributaries, you can watch a female jaguar hunting lizards on the riverbank, a male jaguar catching a caiman, or photograph a young cat resting in a tree as the sun sets over the Pantanal. Pantanal Jaguar Safaris and Biodiverse Brazil Tours, led by biologists committed to sustainable tourism, offer jaguar expeditions in the northern Pantanal.

Fishing

Piranha fishing in the Pantanal is truly an extraordinary experience. Imagine casting your line into the river while caimans sunbathe a few feet away, watching your every move. These sharp-toothed fish are surprisingly easy to catch – lodges and guides will provide the beef bait you need to lure them in. And don’t be surprised if a caiman gets cheeky, hovering nearby as you reel in your catch.

Once you’ve caught enough, the real treat begins: piranha is a local delicacy, often fried whole or turned into caldo de piranha, a flavorful soup. Most pousadas offer piranha fishing as part of their activities, so no prior experience is needed – just bring a sense of adventure and a steady hand.

Horseback riding

You can explore the Pantanal on horseback, traversing the lagoons and trails as the Pantaneiro cowboys do. Many lodges and ranches offer guided rides suitable for all experience levels, so even if you've never gotten on a horse - I highly suggest this unique way to experience the pristine beauty of the Pantanal.

Where should I stay in the Pantanal?

There is no shortage of options for where to stay in Pantanal, it all depends on your budget and preferences. Here's what you can roughly expect based on your budget:

• For the luxury traveler:
  • Refúgio Ecológico Caiman (Mato Grosso do Sul): A top choice for jaguar tracking and eco-tourism, offering beautifully decorated lodges and lake views.
  • Deville Prime Campo Grande (Mato Grosso): This hotel offers high-standard rooms with excellent facilities, providing a comfortable stay before or after your Pantanal adventure.
• For mid-range traveler:
  • Comfortable pousadas and lodges along the Transpantaneira and Estrada do Parque, offering guided wildlife tours.
• For budget traveler:
  • Rustic fazendas (working farms) provide basic rooms and home-cooked meals, ideal for an affordable yet authentic stay.

Editor's tip: The number one rule of any trip - book early - applies to Pantanal as well, especially during the dry season when options fill up quickly.

What should I pack for the trip?

When traveling to the Pantanal, you should certainly consider the specifics and characteristics of the region as well as your goals. Realize that you are not going to a fashion show and put practicality first. Here are the basic things you should have in your suitcase:

• Lightweight, light-colored clothing (to deter mosquitos).
• A wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, and insect repellent.
• Sturdy, waterproof shoes or boots.
• Binoculars for wildlife spotting.
• Camera and charger (I strongly recommend using a zoom lens)

Editor's tip: Don’t forget to check health recommendations before you go, including vaccinations for yellow fever. Malaria isn’t common, but it’s worth taking precautions. Stay hydrated, especially during the hotter months, and be ready for quick weather changes – a rain jacket might save the day.

How do you put together an itinerary for Pantanal?

Your Pantanal itinerary certainly depends on how many days you have at your disposal. Here are 2 options you can use as a basis:

• 3-day itinerary: Focus on jaguar spotting along the Cuiabá River (north) or cultural activities on a ranch (south). Book a lodge offering guided safaris to make the most of your time.
• 7-day itinerary: Combine both regions. Spend a few days in Mato Grosso for jaguar safaris, then head to Mato Grosso do Sul to experience Pantaneiro culture, horseback riding, and birdwatching.

Editor's tip: If you have a lot of time, you can easily include a visit to the Pantanal in your 10-day Brazil itinerary. It's also worth considering that the Pantanal is not a destination that is easy to figure out, so if you are not sure of your abilities, use the help of local experts.

FAQ: Answering questions you may still have

• Is the Pantanal safe for solo travelers? Yes, especially if you book guided tours, but avoid driving alone at night.
• Can I visit both the Pantanal and Amazon in one trip? Yes, but it’s a lot of travel. Focus on one unless you have at least two weeks.
• What’s the cost of a jaguar safari? Prices range from $200–$500 per day, depending on the operator and group size.
• What’s the best way to spot wildlife? Early mornings and late afternoons are prime times for animal activity, so plan your safaris around those hours.

So, why should the Pantanal be on your list?

I'd rather wonder why it's still not there? With all its natural diversity and plenty of options for pastimes, Pantanal deserves a spot on any bucket list, honestly even if you're not the world's biggest wildlife fan.

Whether you’re marveling at macaws, exploring the wetlands by boat, or soaking in Pantaneiro culture, this is Brazil at its most wild and wonderful. Make the Pantanal your next adventure – it’s one you’ll never forget.