Constanța: where modern music meets ancient history on the Black Sea

About 230 km from Romania’s capital of Bucharest sits a pretty city on the shores of the Black Sea: Constanța. You may know it as the location of Neversea, Europe’s largest seaside music festival, but some 2000 years’ worth of history draws culture lovers to explore one of the oldest continuously habited spots in Europe, year-round.

I was in town primarily for the festival (2024’s lineup included stonking sets from Maluma, Bebe Rexha and Steve Aoki) but was pleased to discover that staying in the (very walkable) old town centre of Constanța meant I could keep a foot in both worlds. 

By night I wandered down to the beach where the festival was held, exploring the modern restaurants lining the Constanța harbour area on the way to the entrance. I was thrilled to discover that basing myself at Lupa by Bueno hotel meant I would wake up around five minutes’ walk from some of Romania’s most impressive art collections, museums and monuments - and surrounded by evocative Beaux Arts architecture. I had the chance to dig deep into Constanța’s history before even leaving the hotel - its Lupa restaurant is a tourist attraction in itself, built on the remains of the ancient Tomis fortress, ruins visible through cleverly designed glass flooring.

A vibrant street art scene makes even a short walk interesting. I particularly loved the huge mural taking up a back wall of hotel Casa Ruxandrei on Strada Ecaterina, painted by BTA during the urban regeneration project PeWall Festival in 2023. The first urban art festival in Constanța, it sees 10 new murals expand Constanta's street art circuit, part of a programme of creative workshops, video projections and musical performances. There are several works worthy of a place on Arthur Verona street in Bucharest, a street dedicated to graffiti and painting. My favourite had to be Wanda Hutira’s mural taking over a wall at restaurant Papa Ricardo on Tomis Boulevard, depicting a young girl making a wish.

After my morning coffee, I filled one day with a gentle stroll ticking off as many local landmarks as possible. Ovid Square is named after the Roman poet, Ovid, who lived in Constanța for the last 10 years of his life following his banishment from Rome by the Emperor Augustus. The Archeological Park between City Hall and Ferdinand Avenue is a calm place to sit and read your book, once you’ve taken the time to find the Roman sculptures peeking out amidst the greenery. I spotted the remains of a 3rd-century Roman city wall and a 6th-century butchers' tower, before stopping to take in one particular piece of artwork that did much to reacquaint me with the complicated political history of Romania. 

The handsome Victory Monument in City Hall Park, sculpted in 1968 by Boris Caragea, is considered controversial. Often dubbed the official sculptor of the communist regime, Caragea’s piece famously depicts the triumph of communism against fascism, a woman proudly standing tall. Much artwork in Romania commemorates the timeline leading up to the fall of communism in 1989, marking a time of huge change and innovation.

To comprehend Romania as it is today, it’s important to get a feel for the country’s deeply religious roots. You can climb the 140 steps to the top of the minaret of Romania's largest mosque, built in 1910 by King Carol I, then you might wind your way round to Byzantine St. Peter and Paul Orthodox Cathedral, which sits near the ruins of the ancient city. Christianity is still the largest faith; the 2021 National Census showed 85.3% of the population identify as Romanian Orthodox Christians.

Traditional Christian life in Romania is well documented at the Folk Art Museum, sitting at the intersection of Tomis Boulevard and Traian Street. The gorgeous 1893 building is a work of art in itself, its entrance boasting a Romanesque arch and Corinthian capital, with carved quasi-Renaissance detail above some of the round-topped windows. The pink and white ‘streaky bacon’-style polychrome striping isn’t unlike what you’d find in Britain, and it feels like you’ve ticked off an important sight before even stepping inside.

Inside are over 15,000 items that help paint a picture of folk culture the country is famed for, with delicate ornaments, painted glass and wood, ceramics, costumes and kitchen items once belonging to Romanian peasants. A five minute walk takes you to the Museum of Archaeology and History, stuffed with items from Palaeolithic times all the way up to the modern day. Of note are the pieces illustrating Romania's Greek-Roman period, telling how Romanians are descendants of the old Roman conquerors and colonisers of Daci, north of the Danube.

A ten minute walk from here takes you to the Art Museum, its collection of over 7000 works starting chronologically from the 19th Century and moving through to the 20th Century. Here prominent painters like Tonitza, Pallady and Iser are showcased through painting, sculpture and graphics. Put together by the man who started the first art school in Romania, Constanta’s Art Museum is second only to those of Bucharest. 

I enjoyed seeing the Chimera sculptures of Romanian artist Dimitrie Paciurea and paintings by Nicolae Grigorescu, a master of Pointillist and Impressionist paintings. I flitted between the permanent and temporary exhibitions across two buildings; notable was “Based on a True Story" by artist Irina Dragomir, which had opened the day before our arrival in town. The director of Art Safari in Bucharest named Dragmoir "the superstar of contemporary art from Romania"; her powerful exhibition challenges societal norms related to gender, beauty or power (until 31 August 2024).

During one afternoon of exploring, our group wandered to the most well-known symbol of the city - the iconic, abandoned Art Nouveau Casino which is currently under restoration and slated to open to the public in autumn 2024.

Located between the commercial and tourist ports, you can immediately see both ancient and modern influences, somewhat of an architectural tapestry of East and West. Up until World War II, the Casino’s ballrooms and reading halls were filled with well-to-do tourists and gamblers making and losing their fortunes, before it was transformed into a hospital to treat soldiers. When World War II ended, Romania emerged under Soviet occupation; several renovation projects have started and failed since then, the latest beginning in 2020. 

Far from completion, the landmark still gives off a nostalgic feel, full of stories and secrets - much like the rest of Romania. Each day I spent in Constanța, I definitely learned something new, from old folk traditions to the important messaging modern artists are working hard to share. 

Sitting on a bench with a view of the Casino, I took a minute to properly enjoy the view of the Black Sea (and a breather - the sun can be blisteringly hot in summer, though the sea breeze does much to help you out). There’s definitely a romantic feel to the promenade, and the city, that makes you feel connected to Romania’s variegated past. I’m even more curious about its compelling future. With new artists, restaurants and festivals springing up all the time, it’s bound to be an interesting one.

In all, Constanța is a pretty unique place. Here you can explore Roman ruins, check out ornate museums, and then dive into some fantastic street art and music festivals —all with the Black Sea as its backdrop.

This post was made in partnership with Mamaia Constanța.