Ischia, Italy: things to do and places to stay

Skip the crowds in Capri and head to Ischia instead — a volcanic island in the Bay of Naples that’s still flying under the radar. Visiting Ischia means soaking in natural hot springs, hiking up Monte Epomeo, and kicking back on uncrowded beaches. It’s packed with history too, from medieval castles to Roman ruins, and it’s close enough to Procida for a quick island hop.

Planning a holiday in Ischia? This no-nonsense guide covers the best things to do in Ischia, where to stay, how to get around, and insider travel tips — whether you’re here for a weekend escape or a full-on Italian island vacation.

Why swap Capri for Ischia, Italy?

Back in the first century BC, Emperor Augustus handed over Ischia to the people of Naples so he could claim Capri for himself. Big mistake — at least if you’re after space to breathe and a more relaxed island vibe.

While Capri has long been a magnet for the rich and famous, visiting Ischia is about unplugging. You’ll find thermal springs, low-key spa hotels, and locals who actually live here year-round. It’s less about posing with a Negroni and more about soaking in volcanic mud and sea views.

Ischia’s main port, Porto, curves around a horseshoe-shaped harbor that sets the tone the moment your ferry docks. Monte Epomeo, the island’s highest point, rises up behind it — a dormant volcano cloaked in pine forest and thick greenery. It feels more like Central America than southern Italy, but you're just a short boat ride from Naples.

If you’re planning a trip to Italy and want something more authentic than the usual Amalfi-to-Florence circuit, carve out time for Ischia. This is the island to choose if you want hot springs over high heels, and real charm over celebrity gloss.

Ischia is emphatically Italian

Step off the ferry at Porto and it hits you — this is real Italy. Housewives inspect plums like art critics. Lemons are sniffed before they're bought. Old men sit in cafés playing cards, sipping caffè corretto (espresso spiked with grappa), and watching the world go by.

Visiting Ischia is about slowing down. It’s the kind of place where you can feel the rhythm of everyday Italian life — no filters, no fuss. And unlike other spots along the Bay of Naples, Ischia isn’t putting on a show. It doesn’t need to.

Planning a longer Italy itinerary? You could start in Rome, dive into Naples for pizza and Pompeii, then head to Ischia for a few lazy days of hot springs and seafood. From there, loop back through the Amalfi Coast, Florence, and finally Milan — because yes, a bit of glamour never hurts.

Soak in Ischia’s volcanic hot springs

One of the best things to do in Ischia is take the waters — literally. The island sits on 103 volcanic springs, long used to treat everything from arthritis to gout. It’s such a big deal that Italy’s public health service still sends patients here for thermal therapy.

For a luxe soak, check into San Montano Resort & Spa. Tucked above the Bay of San Montano, this hilltop retreat has seven pools and a lemon-scented garden perfect for open-air massages. It’s low-key fancy — the kind of place where you can sip prosecco in a hot spring without feeling judged.

Looking for more of a wellness playground? Negombo Thermal Park in Lacco Ameno has 14 pools set across lush gardens filled with tropical plants, sculptures, and sea views. It’s equal parts spa and botanical fantasyland.

If you're traveling through Italy on a budget (or just want something less curated), go local at Il Sorgeto. Near the village of Panza, this rocky cove has natural hot springs that bubble right into the sea. No ticket, no rules — just bring your swimsuit, grab a beer, and catch the sunset with a mix of locals and in-the-know visitors.

Getting around Ischia by local bus

Forget car rentals — the easiest (and most entertaining) way to get around Ischia is by hopping on the local circular bus. Lines CS and CD loop the island in both directions, hitting the main towns and beach spots. It’s cheap, chaotic, and a full-on local experience. Don’t be surprised if you end up chatting to a nonna with shopping bags or hanging on tight as the driver corners like he’s in a rally race.

Score a window seat and you’re in for a show: bougainvillea spills over sun-faded villas, cactus gardens compete with wildflowers, and vineyards glow under the Mediterranean sun.

Along the north coast, you’ll pass through towns like Forio, Casamicciola, and Lacco Ameno — a mix of old-school spa hotels, beachfront trattorias, and breezy promenades lined with palms.

Down south, Sant’Angelo turns up the charm with its whitewashed houses and steep, winding lanes. There are no cars here — just peace, sea views, and water taxis. Hop one to Spiaggia dei Maronti, one of the best beaches in Ischia, with natural steam vents and dark volcanic sand.

For a stylish stay with a laid-back glam vibe, book a night or two at Hotel Ferdinando Terme, tucked right on the beach near Sant’Angelo.

Island hopping from Ischia to Procida

If you're visiting Ischia, don't miss the chance to hop over to Procida — a tiny, colorful island just a 15-minute ferry ride away. It’s smaller, quieter, and far less touristy than its neighbors (except in August, when Italian families take over the beaches — a reminder that timing matters if you're thinking about the best time to visit Italy).

Procida is full of photo-ready scenes: geraniums in chipped terracotta pots, trees heavy with lemons, and quiet alleys that look like film sets — because some of them were. Marina Corricella, with its sugar-almond-colored houses and old-school fishing boats, is the star. It’s one of the most beautiful harbors in the Bay of Naples and still feels lived-in, not curated.

The town starred in The Talented Mr Ripley and Il Postino. Stop for lunch at Taverna del Postino, a laid-back spot famous for its herbed mussels and fried zeppolins (like savory doughnuts, not airships).

If you're not rushing back, consider staying overnight. La Suite Boutique Hotel offers modern rooms, a lush garden, and easy access to Procida’s quiet beaches — perfect if you want to stretch your Ischia vacation into something a little more magical.

Step back in time in Ischia Ponte

Ischia’s past is anything but quiet. Over the centuries, it’s been colonized by Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Turks, and the Aragonese — and traces of them all are layered into the island’s architecture and legends. If you're into the history of Italy beyond the usual Rome and Florence highlights, Ischia offers a unique take. While there are a few small museums scattered across the island, the real history lesson is at Castello Aragonese, perched dramatically in Ischia Ponte.

This medieval fortress rises from a rocky islet, connected to the main island by a causeway. Walk its winding paths for sea views that stretch across the Bay of Naples, then explore the complex’s eerie chapels, tunnels, and fresco-filled chambers.

The most haunting part? A small chamber lined with stone seats once used to display the bodies of dead nuns — yes, really — so the living could contemplate mortality. It’s unforgettable, and unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere in Italy.

Once you've had your fill of medieval memento mori, head to the terrace café and order a Campari with a view. Or, if you're short on time, Castello Aragonese is often included in day tours from Naples to Ischia, making it a top pick for first-timers.

Head for the hills in Serrana Fontana

Wherever you are on the island, Monte Epomeo looms above — a dormant volcano and Ischia’s highest point at 789m. The best way to reach the summit? Hike up from the village of Fontana, in the hilltop commune of Serrara Fontana. It takes about an hour through pine forest and chestnut groves, with goats for company and sea breezes as your soundtrack.

At the top, the trees thin out and the views open wide — over the entire island, the Bay of Naples, and on a clear day, even Vesuvius. This isn’t Capri: you won’t be elbowing for a selfie or waiting for a €25 plate of pasta.

Instead, stop at La Grotta, a family-run spot carved into the rock, where you can refuel with grilled rabbit, local wine, and whatever’s just come off the stove. It’s rustic, it’s peaceful, and it’s very, very Ischia.

Head to the beach

Beyond hot springs and hiking trails, Ischia’s beaches are another reason to visit — and yes, they’re much less crowded than Capri’s.

On the south coast, Sant’Angelo is where laid-back meets stylish. Whitewashed houses spill down the cliffs, and water taxis zip you over to Spiaggia dei Maronti, one of the best beaches in Ischia. It's long, wild, and partly heated by underground springs — you’ll even find natural steam vents tucked into the cliffs.

If you’re staying near Forio, check out Chiaia Beach. It’s easy to reach, family-friendly, and great for a swim thanks to calm, shallow waters. The beach stretches along the coast with space to lounge, paddle, or just stroll with a gelato.

Further north, San Montano Beach sits in a sheltered cove between Lacco Ameno and Negombo Thermal Park. Half of it is open to the public, the other half belongs to Negombo — where hot pools meet saltwater. If you want a beach day with a side of spa time, this is your spot.

Visit Lacco Ameno - Ischia’s prettiest town

Lacco Ameno might just be the most photogenic town in Ischia, Italy. Sitting on the north coast, it’s all pastel buildings, palm-lined promenades, and old-world charm — a strong contender for one of the most beautiful places in Italy if you like your views with a side of volcanic history. 

The town is best known for Il Fungo — a 10-meter-tall mushroom-shaped tufa rock that juts out of the sea just offshore. Locals love it, and it’s become the unofficial mascot of the town.

The main draw here, though, is water. Lacco Ameno’s spa culture runs deep — the town’s thermal mud baths are famous for being the most radioactive in Italy (in a good-for-your-joints kind of way). They’re popular with winter visitors looking for a quiet, healing Ischia vacation.

Just above town, the Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae is worth a detour. Set inside the elegant Villa Arbusto, it houses the island’s most important archaeological finds. The star piece? The Coppa di Nestore — a small clay cup with a playful inscription referencing Homer’s Iliad. It’s the kind of artifact that’s equal parts literary joke and historical treasure.

If you’re looking for a livelier spa day, the Giardini di Poseidon on the south coast has a more resort-style setup with a mix of thermal pools, saunas, and sea access — easily visited as a day trip from Lacco Ameno.

Be amazed by Giardini la Mortella

Tucked into the hills near Forio, Giardini La Mortella is one of the most unforgettable things to do in Ischia. The garden was the lifelong passion project of English composer William Walton and his Argentinian wife Susana, who moved to Ischia in 1949 — back when the island was practically off the map.

With help from landscape designer Russell Page, they turned a rocky volcanic quarry into a lush, exotic wonderland. The garden now spans multiple levels, with winding paths, shady groves, and rare plants from around the world — over 300 species, including orchids, cycads, and towering tree ferns.

Near the entrance, you’ll find a steamy glasshouse with the world’s largest water lily, while up above, there’s a tearoom where you can sip tea to the sound of Walton’s music. Further in, you’ll pass a sculpted crocodile, a Thai pavilion ringed with agapanthus, and a stone pyramid that holds Walton’s ashes. At the very top, a belvedere offers sweeping views over the Bay of Naples.

Where to stay on Ischia

Whether you’re after sea views, spa time, or a family-friendly spot near the sand, Ischia has accommodation for every kind of traveler. Here are a few top picks:

• Hotel Terme Tritone Resort & Spa – Private beach access and a huge pool area. Ideal for spa lovers.
• Hotel Nettuno – Killer views over Forio’s coastline and walking distance to town.
• Hotel Maronti – Family-friendly and right near Spiaggia dei Maronti, one of the best beaches in Ischia.
• Hotel Torre Sant’Angelo – Great value, great views, and close to Sant’Angelo without the hefty price tag.

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