Surfing
Surfing is one of Costa Rica’s biggest draws and is very good on both coasts, although there are certain beaches that are suitable during only certain months. You can surf all year round on the Pacific: running north to south the most popular beaches are Naranjo, Tamarindo, Boca de Barranca, Jacó, Hermosa, Quepos, Dominical and, in the extreme south near the Panama border, Pavones. On the Caribbean, the best year-round beaches are at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Punta Uva, further down the coast and the season runs roughly between October and late-February.
There are numerous camps and schools where you can learn to surf in Tamarindo , Santa Teresa/Mal País and Jacó . Costa Rica is small enough that if things are quiet on one coast, it’s fairly easy to pack up your kit and hit the other (buses will take your board for a small additional fee while shuttle buses charge a bit more). Serious surfers spending some time in the country will find The Surfer’s Guide to Costa Rica and SW Nicaragua by Mike Parise an invaluable guide.
You can check tide times online at http://crsurf.com.
The Pacific
The north Pacific coast and Nicoya Peninsula are the country’s prime surfing areas, with a wide variety of reef and beach breaks, and lefts and rights of varying power and velocity. Playa Potrero Grande (also known as Ollie’s Point and made famous in the surf flick Endless Summer II) is only accessible by boat from Playas del Coco and offers a very fast, right point break. Within Parque Nacional Santa Rosa, Playa Naranjo (or Witch’s Rock) gives one of the best breaks in the country and has the added attraction of good camping facilities, though you’ll need your own 4WD to reach them.
Moving down to the long western back of the Nicoya Peninsula, Playa Tamarindo has three (very popular) sites for surfing, though they don’t offer a really demanding or wild ride and parts of the beach are plagued by rocks. Playa Langosta, just south of Tamarindo, offers more demanding right and left beach breaks. Playa Avellana has a good beach break, with very hollow rights and lefts, while the faster Playa Negra nearby has a right point break that is one of the best in the country. Playa Sámara and Playa Nosara offer fairly gentle beach breaks (Sámara is particularly good for beginners), though things hot up a bit as you work your way towards the tip of the peninsula, where playas Manzanillo, Santa Teresa, Carmen (best for beginners), Mal País and, on the east coast, Montezuma, have consistent breaks.
Near Puntarenas on the central Pacific coast, Boca Barranca is a river-mouth break with a very long left, while Puerto Caldera also has a good left. Playa Tivives (beach break) and Valor (a rocky point break) have good lefts and rights, as does the point break at Playa Escondida. Playa Jacó is not always dependable for good beach breaks, and the surf is not too big, though it’s within easy reach of Roca Loca, a rocky point break to the north, and, to the south, Playa Hermosa, a good spot for more experienced surfers, with a very strong beach break. The adjacent playas Esterillos Oeste, Esterillos Este, Bejuco and Bocas Damas offer similarly good beach breaks.
On the south Pacific coast, the river mouth at Quepos has a small left point break, while Playa Espadilla at Manuel Antonio is good when the wind is up, with beach breaks and left and right waves. Southwards from here, Playa El Rey offers left and right beach breaks, but you’re best off continuing to Dominical and some really great surfing, with strong lefts and rights and beautiful surroundings. Down at the very south of the country, Bahía Drake gets going on a big swell. A much more reliable wave hits the shore at Playa Pavones, allegedly the longest left point in the world, very fast and with a good formation; it’s offset by the nearby right point break at Matapalo. Only hardcore surfers tend to tackle the remote reef break at Punta Burica.
The Caribbean
The best surfing beaches on the Caribbean coast lie in the south, from Cahuita to Manzanillo villages. Playa Negra at Cahuita has an excellent beach break, with the added bonus of year-round waves. Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is home to La Salsa Brava, one of the few legitimate “big waves” in Costa Rica, a very thick, tubular wave formed by deep water rocketing towards a shallow reef. Further south, Manzanillo has a very fast beach break in lovely and pretty surroundings.
Up towards Puerto Limón, there are a couple of beaches that, while not in the class of Puerto Viejo, can offer experienced surfers a few good waves. Westfalia’s left and right beach breaks only really work on a small swell, while Playa Bonita, a few kilometres north of Limón, is known for its powerful and dangerous left; only people who really know what they are doing should try this. The right point break at Portete is easier to handle, though the left-breaking waves at Isla Uvita, just off the coast from Puerto Limón, are also considered tricky. The north Caribbean coast has a number of decent beach breaks, which you can reach along the canals north of Moín.