Brief history of Varadero
Varadero began life as a town as late as 1887, founded by a group of wealthy families from nearby Cárdenas intent on establishing a permanent base for their summer holidays. The archetypal old Varadero residence, built in the early decades of the twentieth century, was one modelled on the kinds of houses then typical of the southern US: two- or three-storey wooden constructions surrounded by broad verandas, with sloping terracotta-tiled roofs, as exemplified by the Museo Varadero building.
By the time of the Revolution at the end of the 1950s, Varadero had become one of the most renowned beach resorts in the Caribbean, attracting wealthy Americans and considered to be a thoroughly modern and hedonistic vacationland. Standards slipped, however, after power was seized by Fidel Castro and his rebels, who tended to frown on tourism. It wasn’t until the government’s attitude on this issue came full circle in the early 1990s that serious investment began to pour back into Varadero. Since then, over twenty new hotels have been built, most of them all-inclusive mega-resorts occupying the previously undeveloped land in the eastern section of the peninsula.
Where to go in Varadero
There are beach resorts the length and breadth of the country but none is more complete than Varadero. This is the country’s long-time premier holiday destination, two hours’ drive east of Havana in Matanzas province. Based on a highway of dazzling white sand that stretches almost the entire length of the 25km Península de Hicacos, Varadero offers the classic package-holiday experience. For the tried-and-tested combination of watersports, sunbathing and relaxing in all-inclusive hotels, there is nowhere better in Cuba. On the opposite side of the province, the Península de Zapata, with its diversity of wildlife, organized excursions and scuba diving, offers a wealth of different possibilities. The grittier Cárdenas and provincial capital Matanzas contrast with Varadero’s made-to-measure appeal. But it’s the nearby natural attractions of the Bellamar caves and the verdant splendour of the Yumurí Valley that provide the focus for most day-trips.
Best places to visit in Varadero
- Varadero beach Walk or run for miles on the golden sands of Cuba’s most famous beach, then cool down in the shallow turquoise water.
- Mansión Xanadú Sleep, eat or drink in opulent style at one of Varadero’s most alluring addresses.
- Learn to kitesurf in Varadero One of the best places in Cuba to learn to kitesurf is at the Varadero Kitesurf School.
- Hershey train It may be slow and unreliable, but this dinky electric train passes through some beautiful scenery.
- Cuevas de Bellamar Descend over 50m underground into these awesome underground caves and along 750m of atmospheric passageways.
- Río Canímar boat trip Enjoy the Cuban countryside on a fun-packed cruise up this broad, tree-lined river.
- Diving at the Península de Zapata The flooded caves and coral reef here offer the best dive sites in the province.
Mansión Xanadú
The first tangible visitor attraction east of town, about 2km from central Varadero, is the Mansión Xanadú, a hotel, restaurant, bar and one of the few buildings on the peninsula you could call a historic landmark. Sometimes referred to as the Mansión Dupont, it was built between 1926 and 1929 by the American millionaire Irenée Dupont at a cost of over $600,000, a vast sum for that era. At the same time, Dupont bought up large tracts of land on the peninsula for hotel development and effectively kick-started Varadero as a major holiday destination. The mansion has hardly changed since the Dupont family fled the island in 1959, and stands testament to the wealth and decadence of the pre-revolutionary years in Varadero. These days, to appreciate the splendidly furnished four-storey interior, its large rooms full of marble and mahogany, you either have to be a hotel guest, eat at the Las Américas restaurant or sip a cocktail and admire the views of the coast and golf course from the dignified top-floor bar.
Marina Gaviota
At the furthest extreme of Varadero, the Marina Gaviota, still expanding after years under construction, is not only the peninsula’s top nautical facility but also a commercial holiday village, centred around a small, outdoor, waterside mall, Plaza Las Morlas, which wouldn’t look out of place in a theme park. Said to be the largest marina in the Caribbean, with 1200 berths, its currently underused capacity has been established in anticipation of the flood of American yachts and travellers expected to visit Cuba’s north coast if and when Washington repeals its economic blockade. Regardless of any future changes, this huge project has already transformed the eastern end of the peninsula, adding a short waterfront promenade, a few shops and market stalls, a nightclub, tapas bar, Mexican, Argentinian and seafood restaurants, a bowling alley, apartment blocks and yet another all-inclusive hotel, as well as the boat trips, diving and fishing excursions you’d expect from a marina.