#6 Be wowed by the Temple of Hatshepsut
The Temple of Hatshepsut (1498– 1483 BC) is somewhat different from the other temples, being set back in a spectacular natural amphitheatre. Three gracefully proportioned and colonnaded terraces are connected by sloping ramps.
The sanctuary areas are backed up against the mountain and partially hollowed out of the rocks. On first approach, the temple looks strangely modern, but it is easy to imagine how grand the complex must have been when the courts were filled with perfumed plants, fountains and myrrh trees.
Hatshepsut’s divine birth and exploits are recorded on the walls behind the colonnades of her temple. They include an expedition to Punt in Somalia, from where frankincense trees, giraffes and other exotica were brought back to Egypt.
The cutting and transportation of the two great obelisks set up by Hatshepsut at Karnak are also recorded. The temple was designed by Senenmut, evidently a great favourite of the queen. His portrait is hidden behind a door; and his own tomb is nearby. The upper ramp has benefited from many years of restoration.
#7 Visit Ramesses II’s mortuary temple, The Ramesseum
Some of Ramesses II’s (1279–1212 BC) mortuary temple, the Ramesseum, is in ruins, but like other monuments of this pharaoh (who reigned for over 60 years and had 80 children) what remains is majestic.
In front of the Hypostyle Hall lie parts of the largest granite colossus on record, the statue of Ozymandias (Ramesses’ coronation name), which inspired the poet Shelley in his poem, Ozymandias. One foot alone measures 3.3 metres (11ft).
The famous Battle of Kadesh (1274 BC) is depicted on the pylons. More interestingly is a representation of Thoth, the ibis-headed secretary god writing Ramesses’ name on the leaves of the sacred tree. Vestiges of the adjoining palace where the king came to spend a few days supervising work on his “Mansion of Eternity” can be seen.
#8 See Madinat Habu, one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt
Ramesses III (1182–1151 BC), however, is not eclipsed by his famous forebear. Although he modelled his mortuary temple, Madinat Habu, 1km (0.6 miles) southwest of the Ramesseum, on that of his father, the scale is even more extravagant.
The surrounding mud-brick walls may have partly collapsed, but the temple is one of the best-preserved in Egypt, and the easiest to understand as it reflects all the principles of the classical temple.
In ancient times, it was known as the “Mansion of Millions of Years”. The temple is not on the tour-group circuit, and in fact, not much visited at all. In the late afternoon, in the last glow of the sun, one can still feel something of the awe and spirituality the place must have inspired in ancient times.
The enclosure is entered through the Syrian-style gatehouse, from which stairs lead to the pharaoh’s private apartments.