Day 3: Morning Ceremony on the Ganges River
Get up before dawn - the Ganges at sunrise is magical. Climb into a wooden boat and let the rower take you smoothly down the river. The ghats slowly awaken: priests chant, pilgrims bathe, and orange marigold garlands float downstream. The colors of the city, muted in the early light, feel almost dreamlike.
Stop at Manikarnika Ghat, the burning ghat, where cremation rituals unfold with solemn precision. It’s confronting, but there’s beauty in the reverence for life’s impermanence. Afterward, wander the Old City, where the scent of flowers mingles with masala chai and the occasional cow blocks your path.
Day 4: The Temples of Khajuraho
Travel time: 1 hour
A short morning flight takes you from Varanasi to Khajuraho. The temples here are a revelation — not just for their famous erotic carvings, but for their intricate storytelling. Walk among the Western Group of Temples, where every sandstone sculpture seems alive, from celestial nymphs to scenes of daily life. The artistry is breathtaking; you will marvel at how these temples, built over 1,000 years ago, capture humanity in all its forms. In the afternoon, visit the Eastern Group for a more tranquil experience, surrounded by gardens and birdsong.
Where to stay in Khajuraho
The area near Temple Road is perfect for easy access to the main sights. You’ll find everything from homely guesthouses to boutique hotels with leafy courtyards. If you want a more secluded retreat, Sevagram has quiet rooms with serene views of the countryside.
Editor's tip: If you're traveling light, you'll benefit from our tips for backpackers in India.