Getting around Scotland: Transportation Tips

By train

Scotland has a modest rail network, at its densest in the central belt, skeletal in the Highlands, and non-existent in the Islands. However, the successful 2015 reopening of part of the historic Waverley Route to the Borders (known as the Borders Railway) proves that there’s both the political will and public appetite for full-scale reversals of the infamous Beeching closures of the 1960s, and reopening the whole line (as far as Carlisle) hasn’t been ruled out. ScotRail (http://scotrail.co.uk) runs the majority of train services, reaching all the major towns – sometimes on lines rated among the great scenic routes of the world.

As well as purchasing tickets online, you can buy train tickets at most stations, but if the ticket office is closed, or the automatic machine isn’t working, you may buy your ticket on board from the inspector using cash or card. Those eligible for a national railcard (http://railcard.co.uk; £30) can obtain discounted tickets, with up to a third off most fares. These include the 16–25 Railcard, for full-time students and those aged between 16 and 25, the Two Together Railcard for two named people aged over 16 traveling together, and the Senior Railcard for people over 60. Alternatively, a Family & Friends Railcard entitles up to four adults and up to four children to a reduction.

ScotRail’s Club 50 (£15) membership club offers discounted travel for those aged 50 and over. In addition, ScotRail provides several regional passes. The most flexible is the Spirit of Scotland Travelpass, which gives unlimited train travel within Scotland, and also includes travel on the Edinburgh trams and Glasgow subway; the pass costs £149 for four days’ travel in an eight-day period, or £189 for eight days’ travel in a fifteen-day period. The Highland Rover allows unlimited train travel within the Highlands; it costs £95 for four out of eight consecutive days. Lastly, there’s a Central Scotland Rover, which gives unlimited train travel on lines between Glasgow and Edinburgh; it costs £55 for three days’ consecutive travel.

On most ScotRail routes bicycles are carried free, but since there are only between two and six bike spaces available, it’s a good idea to reserve ahead, and this is a requirement on longer journeys.

By coach and bus

All of Scotland’s major towns and cities are served by a few long-distance bus services, known across Britain as coaches. Scotland’s main long-distance operator is Scottish Citylink (http://citylink.co.uk). On the whole, coaches are cheaper than trains and, as a result, are very popular, so for longer journeys it’s advisable to book ahead.

There are various discounts on offer for those with children, those under 26 or over 60, and full-time students (contact Scottish Citylink for more details), and you can also buy an Explorer Pass, which gives unlimited travel throughout Scotland (£56 for three days travel out of five; £84 for five days out of ten; £112 for eight days out of sixteen). Local bus services are run by a bewildering array of companies, many of which change routes and timetables frequently. Local tourist offices can provide free timetables, or you can contact Traveline Scotland (http://travelinescotland.com), which provides a reliable service both online and by phone. There is also a free app available for download.

By car

In order to drive in Scotland you need a current full driving licence. If you’re bringing your own vehicle into the country you should also carry your vehicle registration, insurance and ownership documents at all times.

In Scotland, as in the rest of the UK, you drive on the left. Speed limits are 20–40mph in built-up areas, 70mph on motorways and dual carriageways (freeways) and 60mph on most other roads. Though many built-up areas (including Edinburgh) are increasingly moving towards 20mph, with speed bumps popping up all over the place, as a rule, assume that in any area with street lighting the limit is 30mph.

In the Highlands and Islands, there are still plenty of single-track roads with passing places; in addition to allowing oncoming traffic to pass at these points, you should also let cars behind you overtake. These roads can be frustrating but take care and stay alert for vehicles coming in the opposite direction, which may have been hidden by bends or dips in the road. In more remote regions, the roads are dotted with sheep (and occasionally even cattle), which are entirely oblivious to cars, so slow down and edge your way past; should you kill or injure one, it is your duty to inform the local farmer.

The AA (http://theaa.com), RAC (http://rac.co.uk) and Green Flag (http://greenflag.com) all operate 24-hour emergency breakdown services. You may be entitled to free assistance through a reciprocal arrangement with a motoring organization in your home country. If not, you can make use of these emergency services by joining at the roadside, but you will incur a hefty surcharge. In remote areas, you may have a long wait for assistance.

The drink driving limit is 50mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood, meaning that even one pint of beer or a glass of wine could leave you on the wrong side of the law.

Car rental

Car rental in Scotland is cheaper than it used to be thanks to online advance deals with comparison sites such as http://holidayautos.co.uk. The most economical cars can be rented for as little as £30–35 a day or £140–150 a week. The major chains are confined mostly to the big cities, so it may be cheaper to use small local agencies. With all rentals it’s worth checking the terms and conditions carefully; some rentals only allow you to drive a limited number of miles before paying extra.

Automatics are rare at the lower end of the price scale – if you want one, you should book well ahead. Campervans are another option, offering a wonderful sense of freedom and of course allowing you to save money on accommodation; in high season, rates start at around £650 a week for a VW Campervan and £850 for a four-berth campervan. One excellent company is Bunk Campers (http://bunkcampers.com), which has depots in Edinburgh and near London Luton Airport. Few companies will rent to drivers with less than one year’s experience and most will only rent to people over 21 or 25 and under 70 or 75 years of age.

At the time of writing, petrol (gasoline) and diesel were priced at around £1.35 per litre, though with such a volatile market, prices are likely to continue fluctuating wildly. Note also that prices increase the further you travel from the central belt, with the Highlands and Islands being considerably more expensive, albeit offset to some degree by government subsidies.

By ferry

Scotland has more than ninety inhabited islands, and nearly fifty of them have scheduled ferry links. Most ferries carry cars and vans, and, if you’re driving, the vast majority can – and should – be booked in advance; there’s usually a window of four to six months. There’s no need to book if you’re traveling on foot; simply buy your ticket at the port office or on board.

CalMac (http://calmac.co.uk) has a virtual monopoly on services on the River Clyde and to the Hebrides, sailing to over twenty islands and four peninsulas. They aren’t quick – no catamarans or fast ferries – but they are reasonably priced due to the Scottish Government-sponsored RET (Road Equivalent Tariff). The ferry from Mallaig to Skye, for example, costs £3.50 for foot passengers and £11.60 for cars and £27.50 for motorhomes up to 8m in length. If you’re taking more than one ferry, or aiming for a specific island grouping, you can also make significant savings with an Island Hopscotch ticket (there are thirty different variations to choose between). Given the notoriously fickle west coast weather, especially in winter, it’s probably worth downloading the CalMac Service Status app. It’s not unusual for services to be cancelled at the very last minute, so be prepared for all eventualities, especially if you are off the mainland.

Car ferries to Orkney and Shetland are run by NorthLink Ferries (http://northlinkferries.co.uk), while Pentland Ferries (http://pentlandferries.co.uk) also runs a car ferry to Orkney. The various Orkney islands are linked to each other by Orkney Ferries (http://orkneyferries.co.uk); Shetland’s inter-island ferries are mostly council-run so the local tourist board (http://shetland.gov.uk/ferries) is your best bet for information. There are also numerous small operators round the Scottish coast that run fast RIB taxi services, day-excursion trips, and even the odd scheduled service.

By plane

Apart from the four main airports of Glasgow, Inverness, Edinburgh and Aberdeen, Scotland has numerous minor airports around the Scottish Highlands and Islands, some of which are little more than gravel airstrips. Airfares fluctuate enormously depending on demand, but are generally expensive – if you book early enough you can fly from Glasgow to Islay for £54 one-way, but leave it to the last minute and it could cost you more than twice that. 

Most flights within Scotland are operated by Loganair (http://loganair.co.uk). For inter-island flights in Shetland, you need to book through Airtask (http://airtask.com/shetland-islands-inter-island-service). Competition emerges from time to time, with Eastern Airways (http://easternairways.com) currently offering flights from Aberdeen to Wick.