Edvard Grieg
The composer of some of the most popular works in the standard orchestral repertoire, Edvard Grieg (1843–1907) was born in Bergen, the son of a saltfish merchant. It was, considering the region’s historical dependence on the product, an appropriate background for a man whose romantic compositions have come to epitomize western Norway, or at least an idealized version of it: certainly, Grieg was quite happy to accept the connection, and as late as 1903 he commented that “I am sure my music has the taste of codfish in it.” In part this was sincere, but the composer had an overt political agenda too. Norway had not been independent since 1380, and, after centuries of Danish and Swedish rule, its population lacked political and cultural self-confidence – a situation which the Norwegian nationalists of the day, including Ibsen and Grieg, were determined to change. Such was their success that they played a key preparatory role in the build-up to the dissolution of the union with Sweden, and the creation of an independent Norway in 1905.
Musically, it was Grieg’s mother, a one-time professional pianist, who egged him on, and at the tender age of 15 he was packed off to the Leipzig Conservatory to study music, much to the delight of his mentor, Ole Bull. In 1863, Grieg was on the move again, transferring to Copenhagen for another three-year study stint and ultimately returning to Norway an accomplished performer and composer in 1866. The following year he married the Norwegian soprano Nina Hagerup (1845–1935), helped to found a musical academy in Oslo and produced the first of ten collections of folk-based Lyric Pieces for piano. In 1868, Grieg completed his best-known work, the Piano Concerto in A minor, and, in 1869, his 25 Norwegian Folk Songs and Dances. Thereafter, the composer’s output remained mainly songs and solo piano pieces with a strong folkloric influence, even incorporating snatches of traditional songs.
During the 1870s Grieg collaborated with a number of Norwegian writers, including Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson and Henrik Ibsen, one of the results being his much acclaimed Peer Gynt suites, and, in 1884, he composed the Holberg Suite, written to commemorate the Dano-Norwegian philosopher and playwright, Ludvig Holberg. It is these orchestral suites, along with the piano concerto, for which he is best remembered today. In 1885, now well-heeled and well known, Grieg and his family moved into Troldhaugen, the house they had built for them near Bergen. By that time, Grieg had established a pattern of composing during the spring and summer, and undertaking extended performance tours around Europe with his wife during the autumn and winter. This gruelling schedule continued until – and contributed to – his death in Bergen in 1907.
The great giver: Rolf Stenersen
Many of the twentieth-century paintings in the Bergen Kunstmuseum collection were bequeathed to the city by Rolf Stenersen (1899–1978), one of Norway’s most prominent men of letters. Stenersen donated his first art collection to his hometown of Oslo in 1936 (see Stenersenmuseet) and was in a similar giving mood 35 years later, the beneficiary being his adopted town of Bergen. He was something of a Renaissance man – one-time Olympic athlete, financier and chum of Munch – who seems to have had a successful stab at almost everything, even writing some highly acclaimed short stories in the 1930s.
Guided tours in Bergen
Guided tours of Bergen and its surroundings are big business and the tourist office has a flood of details. In the city itself, the most popular choice is City Sightseeing Bergen’s On&Off Sightseeing Bus, which takes in all the central sights, including the aquarium and Torget (every 30min; 150kr; t97 78 18 88, wcity-sightseeing.com). Troldhaugen and Fantoft stave church are also on many guided tours, including those offered by Norled (May–Sept 1 daily; 350kr; t55 23 88 87, wnorled.no).
There are lots of fjord sightseeing trips too, with Fjord Tours (wfjord-tours.com), one of the leading companies, offering a wide range of tours including “Norway in a Nutshell” and the whirlwind “Hardanger in a Nutshell” (May–Oct 1 daily; 10hr; 820kr). A further, rather more economical option is Rødne Fjord Cruise’s Hurtigbåt passenger express boat excursion from Bergen to Rosendal and its manor house (May–Sept 1–2 daily; 7.5hr; 500kr; t51 89 52 70, wrodne.no). All tours can be booked either direct with the company concerned or at Bergen tourist office.
Recitals at Troldhaugen
Troldhaugen offers a top-ranking programme of Grieg concerts, held in the Troldsalen, throughout the summer both at lunchtimes (early June to Sept 1 daily; 30min; 100kr) and in the evening (mid-June to mid-Aug 2 weekly; 1hr; 220kr). For evening performances free buses leave from near the tourist office one hour before the concert begins. Tickets can be bought online (wkunstmuseene.no) or from the tourist office, but are snapped up quickly.